Robin and Andrea- 12/16/2003: The Red Center

The Red Center : 16 December 2003

We Survived the outback…Oh My God….bugs..bugs..bugs…aaaaaahhh! We are now in Canberra hanging out with Sean and Shona. Sean is prepping the “Ute” and helping us map out our road trip across Australia.
Our outback adventure started with a three hour flight from Sydney to Alice Springs. Already, you know things are going to be weird when the time change is an hour and a half. Then there’s the temperature. We had a day to hang around Alice, doing laundry and packing our day packs for the coming journey, and it was really hot. Nearly 40 degrees Celsius, which is about 100 for us normal people. The only thing that made it bearable was the lovely pool at our hostel. That and the blasting air conditioning in the room. And, amazingly, our “quad share” room never had anyone but the two of us.
The outback was amazing. Last Tuesday at about 5:30 am Robin and I and 11 other people climbed into a big Landcruiser and head out to the northern territory. Our first destination was Ayer’s Rock or now known as Uluru. Strangly enough, Uluru means “Ayer’s Rock” in the local Aboriginal language. We thought it was hot in Alice Springs..ha ha. It hit 44 at the rock (nearly 120) when we first got there.
On the way to our camp site, Phil (our guide) pulled off the road into the bush area where he told us to get out and start collecting wood for the fire that night. “Do not cut yourself or get a splinter” Phil says casually, “this is the wood the Aboriginal people, or “the black fellas,” used to make spears and it is very sharp. There’s a toxin in the wood that can knock out a full grown kangaroo when it is speared.” Wonderful. We had another stop where we got to ride camels too.
I love Camels! To me they have the sweetest face, Huge eyes with long lashes, big floppy lips and horse teeth. They tower over you but love to be rubbed on the forehead or chin, off course you DO NOT want one to stand on you because it would crush you in an instance, theyr'e huge. We rode one on our first day in the outback. Robin and I had a Camel race...I won. It been mentioned that my Camel spit in Robin's Camel's face, but, I'm going to go with the skill of the rider. Then there's the ever feared DIngo, give me a break, I've met meaner dogs in a pound. They are sweet and cute, don't get me wrong, you do not want to antagonize one, but that goes the same for any animal. By the way, the Dingo DID NOT eat the Baby. It's impossible, and the Australian people are pissed and offended and that lady is headed towards jail time (Again). Spiders...hhhhmmmmm, I'm still working on that one. They are BIG and hairy and have beady eyes that glow, oh and some will kill you. Roaches..no way, nort there yet.
Phil was a trip himself. He’s from South Australia, and has 30 years of experience as an outback guide. He was funny and knew his shit, but had a bit of a short temper. It didn’t help that most of our group were not native English speakers, but did speak German. So many times, they would be conversing in German and the four of us that didn’t speak it were sort of out of luck. It was a little frustrating sometimes for all of us.
From there we went to our camp sight, set up our “swags” and took off to Ayer’s rock. We were unable to climb it due to the weather. They close the rock if it gets over 36. The day before it was 62 degrees with is about 150… this is Very HOT. So our first actual stop was the swimming pool at the campground. Lovely smelly green water, but at least it was cool. The group was still a bit nervous and unaware of what was to follow. We walked around Ayer’s rock, which was absolutely beautiful, just stunning, unfortunately no words or pictures can do it any justice…it was massive and bright orange-red.
By the way, a swag is sort of like a sleeping bag for your sleeping bag. It’s this canvas sack, with a little mattress on the bottom that you can use to keep yourself warm and dry. Of course, it’s already really warm out there, so the problem becomes that in order to keep dry, you end up being really really hot.
That night we helped Phil prepare for dinner, the only light we had was the fire, a few headlamps and massive lightning. We cooked up pasta, veggies etc..good food. As we ate we could see off in the distance this huge dark storm coming our way. Everybody pulled there swags under a small canopy and enclosed it with tarps. Robin and I, being the outdoorsy (dumb) people that we are decided we would sleep outside, we didn’t care if it was going to rain. And it did, we were soaked the next morning. I couldn’t breathe being all wrapped up in a sleeping bag and a swag so I had to keep my face out which was being pelted by rain drops…it was cool.
This particular camp ground had a toilet, this was very special. However, the toilet was far away and it was a bit scary to walk there alone at night. So the peeing in the bush has begun. Even that was scarey, we had to look out for spiders, beetles, roaches, Dingo’s and off course Camels. Earlier that day Robin and I were walking, I saw this weird thing sticking out of the ground so I sorta tapped it with my foot..aaaaah, this big freaky looking spider jumped out. Oh no….I hate Spiders, how on earth was I going to survive this.
The next day we were all up by 5:30am and where heading out to the Olgas. Now Phil told us that it just gets better after Ayers Rock, hard to believe, but so true. The Olgas were massive and bizarre in formation. We hiked for about 5 hours that morning. We learned about Taka (bush food) and the many plants that were used to make anything from weapons, to food, to medicine. It was so hot, water is mandatory. There are signs everywhere about having to drink water every 15 minutes or you will die. We would drink gallons of water and never have to pee because it would just sweat right out of us…crazy hot.
From here we moved on to a place called Curtain Springs, we pulled into our camp sight that was even more frightening than the night before…nobody was around. There was a hut off in the distance that was called the long drop (toilet)..I wouldn’t even go out there to look at it. The bush was again my toilet, which always came with the fear of something biting me in the ass. Guy’s are sooooo lucky! We threw all our swags and stuff down and jumped back in the truck where Phil drove like a mad man to get us out to a beautiful sunset at Mt. Connor. We got there on time, he pulled out the cooler and everyone climbed on top of the truck to have a drink and watch the sky turn amazing shades of red and orange. On the other side was thunder and lightening…cool.
We went back to an area near our camp sight where Phil was going to BBQ some grub. We all went to the pub for a few then went over to help him. This cooking and eating area was infested, literally, infested with bugs. Phil showed us a red back spider that was hanging out on the handle of the grill. A Red back spider, one of Australia’s deadliest spiders, that’s comforting. There were huge, not exaggerating, huge beatles, roaches, spiders and god knows what else flying around your face and in the food. Even Robin was freaked out. The food was good but going to sleep was rough.
The next day we took an incredibly off road driving trip where we saw wild camels, horses, Dingos, Kangaroos, Thorny Devils, Blue Tongue Lizards and off course Spiders. The drive was crazy, Phil drove off the dirt road and started chasing a dozen Camels…Meanwhile we are bumping and bouncing all over the seats. It was so much fun! We stopped at this beautiful campground, with clean toilets and showers, and a beautiful and clean pool, and went for a little swim. Then, of course, we left this beautiful campground and drove through the middle of the bush to the actual campground where we were staying. Actually, it had a toilet with running water and a heated shower, also. But they were just little open tin sheds, and Phil warned us that the wild camels like to poke their heads in sometimes when people are in there. Great. Just shout at them, and they’re supposed to go away, so he says…
After setting up camp, we headed over to King’s Canyon, where three people had been evacuated in the last three days because of the weather. Nice. We got there in the afternoon, though, and it was much cooler. Then, yet another huge thunderstorm was blowing in, so we were out of the direct sun. King’s Canyon is absolutely beautiful. We walked along the edge of the canyon itself, and then down to this swimming hole called the Garden of Eden, a perfect name for this spot. There were these cliff walls and trees and birds, and this cool dark water. Right as we were leaving, rains from up stream caused the water to overflow the pools, and the waterfalls started. It’s pretty rare to actually sit there and watch a waterfall start! Then, after we walked down the “Heart Attack” stairs, without suffering any heart attacks, we turned just in time to see the sun set under the storm light up the entire canyon. It also created this amazing sunset that looked like the sky was on fire.
That night, Phil set out to make this damper bread. Everyone was very excited, and it was going well. Then, after dinner, while the bread was still cooking on the campfire, Phil fell asleep. Great. Now what? We kept trying to dream up ways to wake him up. Maybe a camera flash? Nope. Maybe the squirt gun he had in the front of the truck? None of use would dare! At one point he woke up enough to say it would be alright. By the time we took it off it was totally burned. Of course, we had to try it anyway. Yum. Burned bread.
The next morning, we got up to go quad biking through the desert. This is totally different than the quad biking we did in New Zealand, but just as fun. The problem with quad biking is always that right when you get comfortable on the machine, and start cutting loose, is when they take you back home. We got back, covered in dust, and were taken back to that wonderful campground with the showers for… showers! Then it was another long drive, this time up to Palm Valley, yet another amazing location. We did a hike through the valley, accompanied by billions of cicadas madly chirping. They’re big and gross and loud, and it was really cool. The rock wallabies, however, were a little timid, and we only saw one, who then quickly hopped away.
Our last night’s camping was in the most remote location yet. This time, there was no toilet at all. No running water at all. Phil put a shovel in the ground with a “dunnie roll” on the handle and said “Here’s the toilet.” Fun. The mosquitoes were also out of control. However, the food was probably the best yet, and that’s saying something because the food was pretty good throughout the trip. You just had to put up with all the bugs while eating it.
After surviving the night with only a few bites, we started our last day of travel. This time we went through West MacDonnell National Park. We stopped at the most amazing swim we’ve had at Redbank Gorge. We swam through this series of pools, surrounded by giant rock walls towering over us, sometimes separated by only about 3 feet. The water was cold and dark and full of bugs and sticks, but it was still an amazing time. Phil was a little disappointed, because the recent rains had left the water muddy and murky. But we didn’t know that until we came back out of the gorge and found the entry area totally deserted. We were convinced we’d spent too long there, and that the rest of the group had left us! Actually, they only moved into the shade, and all was well.
We also stopped in Hermannsberg, the oldest and most established Aboriginal community. The Ntorie people live there. It was weird seeing the local people, though. They have beautiful Spiritual beliefs and an amazing sense of survival, however, they do not pass on any of there myths or stories or basically their culture until the child is ready (it is the grandmothers job to carry out the culture to the grandkids...and so on). So in one aspect the Aboriginal people where at one time beautiful. But, nobody here likes them too much now. They are actually very mean and dirty. There is a huge issue with them and alcohol, apparently their system reacts very strongly to it and they become very violent. The Australian people have done nothing but try to help these people but everytime a school is built or a job is given it is abused. Hermannsberg was like an abondoned wreckage. Any building that was still standing was covered with rod iron bars. The community consisited of 200 Aboriginals and about 5 white people (teacher, doctor, store owner etc..) You would be fined $1000 dollars plus jailed time if cought with the possesion of alcohol. The sexual abuse amongst the children is a dominating problem, that and just basic violence, mostly stemmed from alcohol. The children are so cute and sweet and so innocent, it's painful to witness. Taking a picture was Absolutely NOT ALLOWED, you would be beaten or something. I chose to believe that you shouldn't take a picture out of pure respect for this sad to say, but dying culture. It's strange and I have alot more to learn about it. I refuse to think that they are just bad people, I still think that they are the original owners, the true natives of this country and that the new civilization, yes, is more prosperous and better for the future, jobs, families etc..but what a shock to the people that ate the creatures for survival that we now put in Zoo's. It's wierd. I mostly feel sorry for the kids, It seems like they don't even have a chance. The Aboriginals we saw in Alice Springs where scary, they ask for money or grab you by the arm to scare you (and it works). But it just seems more complicated than that. We went swimming in a gorge where a bunch of locals where hanging out, they were all drinking and jumping off rocks, having a good time, no big deal. BUT, I then noticed the two infant children in one of the woman's arms, along with a beer can, then the profanity started towards us. "White Cunt bitch"....when one of them walked past us he actually said, "How you going? I'm the original owner of this place"....okay...In any case, my research will continue. I'm way curious now. WHY are they like this? Anyway, that's my Aboriginal bit...
Anyway, after our final long day, we made it back to Alice Springs. Our first mission was to do all of our laundry and shower before going out to meet the group for dinner. Well, we walk into our quad share room only to find two people totally asleep on the other two beads. Great. How are we supposed to break out all this laundry and pack without waking them up? Well, we somehow managed it, and ended up partying the night away with Phil and our group. By the time we got back to the hostel, our fellow roommates were, once again, totally asleep.
In the morning, we woke up (the roommates were still totally asleep), and made it to the airport. We were a little worried, since I’d accidentally washed the paper with the reservation number for the flight. But our IDs got us through, and 3 hours later, we met up with Shona and headed down here to Canberra. Watching Shona and Sean has been fun, and it’s been a couple nice days of doing nothing for us. But now we’re getting ready to pack out of here in our temporary Ute. Sean’s been setting it up and getting it going, and feeling sad to see it all dressed up but not be going himself.
Sorry for such a long entry, but it’s hard to find computers in the outback!

Replies: 7 comments

Hi Andrea and Robin!
Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukah ! It is so cool to see all your photos and stories. We're not envious or anything over here. Looks like SO much fun and adventure. Your hair looks so good Andrea.
Happy Holidays,
Kim, Cleo, and Adrian.
Posted by Kim @ 12/18/2003 03:43 PM PST

Gooday Andrea & Robin. Not only did you try to destroy me with the JD's at Dinner & Bo's but you make me sound like a grumpy ol' shit. Probably true but a very loveable one deep down.(as long as you speak English)
Luv the photos and your text on the trip wasnt bad either.
Travel safely guys and have a great Xmas in Oz. Maybe we will C U Agen in Oz. Take care & dont worry about the BUGS - they dont eat that much
Phil
Posted by Phil (the short tempered) Tour Guide @ 12/20/2003 09:51 PM PST

Hi Andrea & Robin,
Hope your both doing OK, sounds like your having a complete blast and cramming so much in, quite envious but not of the spiders!! Just wanted to wish you a Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Take care Love Gill & Adrian X
Posted by Gill & Adrian @ 12/22/2003 11:27 AM PST

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
We you had a safe and crazy time...our New years eve was odd, to say the least.
A&R
Posted by Gill and Adrian @ 01/01/2004 03:48 AM PST